Monday, November 18, 2019

Becoming an Edinburgh "Local"

I had every intention of writing in this blog more regularly, but the semester picked up quite suddenly about a month ago and now here we are... halfway through November.  When you're in a country that doesn't officially celebrate Thanksgiving, you move from Samhuinn / Samhain festivities straight to Christmas with a slight detour for Guy Fawkes / Bonfire Night and a few Friendsgiving feasts.  The famous Edinburgh Christmas Market has just opened up this weekend (the first of many mulled wines this season...) and it was fun to experience the "Castle of Light" event at the Edinburgh Castle - lots to do and a few more essays to write before final exams.

The more time I've spent here, the more I've been feeling like a local which has been a really exciting transformation.  However, I seem to straddle two cultures.  It has been interesting to see America from the outside perspective (Trump and "the good ol' US of A" come up regularly when comparing politics and energy strategies) as I learn more about the UK / European systems, but I am something of an outlander to both cultures.  Adjusting to university life provides more time to reflect on life, society, personal identity and more which has been eye-opening.  Perhaps with time things will become more clear as my personal identity further incorporates elements of both places.

While it can be hard to be away from friends and family back home, I'm so thankful for technology that makes it easy to keep in touch.  Skype, Google Voice, WhatsApp, Facebook and Instagram - makes the distance seem smaller.  Thank you to everyone for continuing to support me on this adventure!!  I wouldn't be here without you.

Catching you up on happenings from this semester...
  • 1st Edinburgh guest - wonderful to catch up with a long-lost TWCP Literary Club connection (now a published illustrator!) my first week of classes.  Calton Hill sunset, delicious Turkish food at Ada and the stunning Royal Botanic Gardens provided the perfect backdrop to catch up after 10 years.
  • Fumbling through rugby - watched University of Edinburgh thoroughly trounce St. Andrew's at the annual Varsity Rugby Match-up.  Leveraging my American football knowledge, I was mostly able to understand... no forward passes and five points instead of six on a "touchdown", but will definitely need to watch more rugby to better understand the scrum and two-point try strategies...  was surprised to see the amazing two-story sideline passes.
  • Stumbling through the Highlands - my "waterproof" hiking boots from the states were no match for Crainlarich's stunning An Caisteal and Beinn a'Chroin munros.  Led by the Hillwalking Society, slogging through bogs and scrambling up peaty hillsides was a grand adventure.  After investing in waterproof hiking boots, I've explored most of Edinburgh's 7 hills (Blackford, Arthur's Seat, Calton and the Pentlands), but still have a few to go.  Not to mention 280 munros await!
  • London - An unexpected reunion with NOLA friends in London was a great surprise.  First experience with an overnight bus (9.5 hours, but not so bad) and we ran into both Extinction Rebellion protesters in Trafalgar Square and Carolina Panthers fans at Leicester Square.  Favorites include Chinatown, Camden Market (home to Amy Winehouse), Museum of London and a twilight Thames photography walk.  Busy London made me glad to live in Edinburgh.
  • Edinburgh reunion with college friends (BOILER UP!) - Unexpected reunion #3 was with a college friend and his wife which was great fun.  We shared a fun couple days together with whisky and hillwalking - the perfect combination.  
  • Stirling day trip - Stirling is the place where William Wallace become famous.  It is also home to Stirling Castle and the Church of the Holy Rude where King James VI was crowned.  A day of no classes led to exploring the town, cemetery, Mote Hill with its Beheading Stone and the William Wallace Monument (home to his massive broadsword).  Highly recommend the Curly Coo Bar where Mandy, the barkeep, has over 220 whiskies!  
  • Leith Walk and Dean's Village - most of my time has been in New / Old Town and around the university, but the Stockbridge Farmer's Market and surroundings are becoming a favorite - local farmers, artists and food vendors with everything from duck eggs to dumplings, ginger curd, Scotch eggs and more.  The charming Dean's Village was historically home to an 800-year old grain milling industry, is now a little oasis from the Royal Mile and Prince's Street.  I  recently found a tartan skirt (Ancient Stewart Hunting Tartan) so I'm officially ceilidh-ready!
  • Samhain / Samhuinn ("sow-win") - No falling through the stones that night, but it was rather supernatural to see Calton Hill transformed into fire circles and ritualistic performances.  Definitely entertaining and a fun way to officially welcome fall.  Of course, we topped off the night with a dram at my favorite Holyrood 9A pub.
  • Roslyn Chapel and Castle - Nearby Roslin is a tiny suburb a few miles south of Edinburgh city centre and home to the ornate Roslyn Chapel (Knights Templar and Da Vinci Code), the ruins of the Roslyn Castle and Dolly's Tea Room, a quaint cafe paying tribute to the cloned "Dolly the Sheep" from the nearby Roslin Institute.  I spent almost two hours exploring the chapel... chock-full of little hand-caved historical and religious details in the sandstone.  
  • Guy Fawkes Night - "Remember, remember, the 5th of November."  It hadn't occurred to me that this was an actual holiday.  Rather like July 4th with sporadic fireworks around the city and Calton Hill was a great viewpoint.  No bonfires up there, but definitely some good craic.
  • Brother visits! - It's truly been a treat to share this semester with my brother and it's made adjusting to Europe easier.  He's been studying in Barcelona and off every weekend exploring new countries while I've been living vicariously through him.  It was fantastic to show him my take on Edinburgh this past weekend complete with pub crawl, Arthur's Seat and Holyrood Park, farmer's market and Dean's Village.  Excited to visit him in Barcelona this weekend!
  • SES cultural days - earlier this semester we hosted a Chinese-themed group lunch then we followed up with Middle-Eastern / Mediterranean - so fun to share each other's cultures while working together on a feast that we can then enjoy.  Brings back fond memories of SJTU "dumpling parties"...
While it truly has been a fantastic semester so far with interesting, thought-provoking courses and fun adventures "oot'n'aboot" Scotland, perhaps the most rewarding is simply living as a local.  Haggis + wholegrain mustard or black pudding + honey on toast is a regular snack / breakfast, perfecting the milk/tea ratio with my favorite Scottish Blend, discovering Mackie's amazing honeycomb ice cream (almost rivals Bluebell), learning celidh dances and wearing tartan scarves and getting to know the comedic genius who is Sir Billy Connolly (highly recommend his book, "Made in Scotland" and here's are a couple fun interviews).  "Dreich", "wee", "craic" and "boggin" are among my favorite Scots words and I'm slowly becoming better at understanding it (still a very long way to go).



In just over a month, my first semester will be over and I'll be home for Christmas.  Very excited to spend time with family and then more adventures await.  Just have 2 essays and 3 exams to go.  More soon!