Tuesday, September 10, 2019

Stay left! A Road Trip Through Ireland's West Coast

Next stop on my Irish adventure was to explore Ireland's west coast.  After picking up my rental car, I earned some honks in a couple roundabouts before getting my bearings.  Thankfully, adjusting to driving on the other side of the road didn't take too much time and soon I was truly appreciating the efficiency of the roundabouts and infrequent traffic lights / stop signs.

Multiple reminders to stay on the left side of the road
My first stop on the way to Killarney brought me to the Rock of Cashel also known as St. Patrick's Rock.  An early royal site, the Cashel of Kings saw St. Patrick "apparently" baptize King Aengus who was Ireland's first Christian ruler then Brian Boru who was crowned High King in 1002.  Brian Boru's grandson, Muircheartach Ua Brian King of Munster, gave the Rock to the Catholic Church.  The intertwined royal and religious history gave context to this beautiful location with its 13th-century Gothic cathedral.





Nearby Hore Abbey, a ruined Cistercian monastery
View of the Rock with one of its neighbors
After Cashel, I journeyed on to Killarney for a two-nights stay at Neptunes Hostel.  I then discovered the Carragh Restaurant (incredible fish and caring wait staff) which led to a fantastic night out with some wonderful Canadian and Californian fellow travelers!

The next day I explored the amazing Ring of Kerry, taking in many of the sights along the way.  Meanwhile I switched between two Irish music CDs and the All-Ireland Kerry / Dublin Gaelic Football game... spoiler, they ended in a draw and have a re-match on 14th September.  Ciarraí abú!!


Next stop on my road trip brought me to the Dingle Peninsula for a two-night stay at the Hideout Hostel (highly recommend!!).  Stunning landscapes, historical sites (Dunbeg, the Beehives and Famine Cottages), fantastic entertainment (found a Britain's Got Talent Star in The Dingle Pub) and unique bars (Foxy John's was a highlight) and some Star Wars fun (Last Jedi set).  A big highlight was finding a kindred spirit in a German fellow hosteler.  It is motivating when you find someone with a similar perspective on adventure!




Continuing on from Dingle, I walked from the town of Doolin down to the Cliffs of Moher.  Part of a UNESCO Geopark, this area is amazing.  I lucked out with the weather and had mostly clear skies on my hike.  I did not expect the sheer power of the Atlantic waves as they forced waterfalls to flow backward, creating ocean spray "rain" as I walked along the coast.  Photos simply don't do this area justice...


After exploring the Doolin area (and passing the Pence motorcade on the highway), I got to Galway.  Honestly by this time, I was exhausted and done with planning - I was thankful that my hostel (City Hostel, fantastic!) offered dinner and then a bar crawl.  Galway is an incredible city.  I walked The Salthill Prom (pretending to be a "Galway Girl"), briefly explored NUI's campus (definitely see some Hogwarts vibes), drove past Galways's beautiful cathedral (which unfortunately was closed) then joined in the hostel-planned activities, introducing me to Galway's nightlife and a great group of international travelers.  You definitely need more than a night to take in everything that this city offers... gotta save something for the next visit!



In a week, I have developed an appreciation for Ireland and its people - an amazing place with troubled history filled with great people.  With the Brexit mess looming, Ireland's delicate balance is threatened.  Here's hoping that things get sorted out in a way that can preserve the peace brought by the 1998 Good Friday Agreement.

Next, onto SCOTLAND.


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